Kerala Food Guide: What to Eat and Drink

Kerala's food is one of the great regional cuisines of India. It uses coconut in many forms, rice in many shapes, black pepper, cardamom, cloves and curry leaves, and an enormous variety of seafood and vegetables. The cooking differs between Hindu, Christian and Muslim communities, which adds to the range. Eating well is one of the pleasures of a Kerala trip.

Breakfast classics

Appam with stew. Soft, lacy rice pancakes with a crisp edge, eaten with a mild coconut milk stew of vegetables, chicken or mutton. It is the dish many travellers remember.

Puttu and kadala curry. Steamed cylinders of rice and coconut, eaten with black chickpea curry, sometimes with banana or papad.

Idiyappam. Steamed rice string hoppers, served with stew or coconut milk.

Dosa and idli with sambar. The same South Indian staples found elsewhere, served with Kerala-style coconut chutney.

Seafood

Fish curry (meen curry). A tangy, red curry with kodampuli (Malabar tamarind) and coconut oil.

Karimeen pollichathu. Pearl spot fish marinated in spices, wrapped in banana leaf and pan-fried or grilled. A signature backwater dish.

Prawn roast and prawn curry. Prawns cooked with onions, spices and coconut.

Fish fry. Simple, crisp and spicy, usually served with rice.

Prices for fresh seafood in restaurants are often quoted per weight, so ask before you order.

Meat dishes

Beef fry and parotta. A spicy beef dish with flaky Malabar parotta is a popular combination among Christians and Muslims, especially in Kochi and the north.

Chicken roast and mutton curry. Cooked with coconut slices and black pepper.

Thalassery biryani. A fragrant, mildly spiced biryani from the Malabar coast.

If you do not eat beef, say so clearly when ordering.

Vegetarian food

Kerala has a rich vegetarian tradition, particularly among Hindu communities.

Sadya. A feast of around 20 or more dishes served on a banana leaf, traditionally at Onam and other festivals, but also available at restaurants at lunch. It includes rice, sambar, avial, thoran, olan, pachadi, pickles, banana chips, papad and payasam for dessert.

Avial. A mixed vegetable dish with coconut and yoghurt.

Thoran. A dry stir-fry of vegetables with grated coconut.

Olan. A mild curry of ash gourd and cowpeas in coconut milk.

Vegetable stew with appam. A gentle, mild dish.

Sweets and snacks

Payasam. A sweet milk or jaggery dessert, served at the end of a sadya.

Banana chips and sharkara upperi. Crisp fried bananas, often in coconut oil, plain or coated in jaggery.

Pazham pori. Banana fritters.

Unniyappam. Small, sweet rice and jaggery fritters.

Drinks

Filter coffee and tea. Strong, milky and sweet, often served in small steel tumblers.

Tender coconut water. Available at roadside stalls.

Sulaimani tea. A spiced black tea with lemon and mint, popular in the north.

Toddy. A fermented palm drink sold in licensed toddy shops, often with spicy snacks. Drink only from licensed sellers.

Street food and snacks

Kerala's tea shops and roadside stalls serve crisp banana chips, pazham pori, unniyappam, parippu vada, ullivada and strong sweet tea. In Kochi and the north, try small bakeries for puffs, cutlets and sweets. Tender coconut water is sold at almost every junction. Choose busy stalls, and watch the food being cooked fresh.

Local restaurants and toddy shops

Small family-run restaurants, known as hotels, serve excellent meals at low prices, often with rice, fish curry and thoran. Toddy shops, licensed to serve fermented palm sap, are known for their spicy food, such as fish curry, tapioca and duck roast. They are a local institution; ask your hotel to recommend a clean, well-regarded one.

Dietary notes

Vegetarian, vegan, Jain and gluten-free travellers can eat well with some planning. Say clearly what you cannot eat, and ask about coconut milk, ghee and fish-based stock. Hotels and houseboats can prepare special meals if told in advance. Packaged snacks and fruit are good backups for long drives.

Eating by region

• Kochi: A mix of Syrian Christian, Jewish, Mappila and Portuguese-influenced dishes, with excellent seafood.
• Alleppey and Kumarakom: Karimeen, duck roast and toddy-shop food.
• Munnar and Thekkady: Home-style meals at plantation stays, with local vegetables and spices.
• Kovalam and Varkala: Beach seafood and international food.
• Malabar (north Kerala): Biryani, pathiri and seafood.

Houseboat food

Houseboat cooks prepare simple meals: rice, fish curry, vegetable dishes, thoran and sambar, with fresh fish bought from local fishermen. Tell them about dietary needs, such as vegetarian, Jain or no spice, in advance.

Spice levels and how to ask

Kerala food ranges from mild stews to fiery fish curries. If you prefer less heat, ask for it to be "less spicy" or "mild" when ordering, and have yoghurt, rice or banana on hand to cool your mouth. Most cooks are happy to adjust, especially in hotels and houseboats.

Eating safely

• Choose busy places with fresh turnover.
• Drink bottled or filtered water.
• Wash fruit and avoid raw salads if your stomach is sensitive.
• Start slowly with spice.
• Carry hand sanitiser and basic remedies.

Tipping and bills

A service charge is added at many hotel restaurants, while small local places usually do not charge one. Tipping 5 to 10 per cent for good service is appreciated but not required. Check bills for the items ordered, and ask for a receipt if you plan to claim expenses.

Experiences

Cooking classes in Kochi, Thekkady and Kumarakom teach you to make appam, curries and coconut chutney. A spice plantation visit shows where pepper, cardamom and nutmeg come from. A sadya on a banana leaf is worth doing at least once.

Our Kerala tour packages include breakfast, and we can add a cooking class, a spice walk or a special dinner. Tell us what you like to eat.

Practical tips

• Try a sadya at lunch, when it is traditionally served.
• Ask about spice level; some dishes are very hot.
• Choose busy restaurants for seafood, and ask the price per weight before ordering.
• Vegetarians should check whether gravies use fish stock or coconut-based non-vegetarian bases.
• Drink bottled or filtered water, and be careful with ice.