On this page 12 sections
The backwaters are Kerala's most distinctive landscape: a web of lagoons, lakes and canals that stretches along the coast, lined with coconut palms and paddy fields. Alappuzha (Alleppey) and Kumarakom are the two main bases, and between them they offer everything from a basic houseboat to a luxury lakeside resort.
What the backwaters are like
The area known as Kuttanad lies below sea level, and its fields are protected by dykes. Life moves on the water: small canoes carry children to school, fishermen cast nets and ferry boats run between villages. Vembanad Lake, the largest lake in Kerala, is the centrepiece, with Alleppey on its southern shore and Kumarakom on its eastern shore.
Alleppey
Alleppey is a canal town that is also the main houseboat hub. The houseboat cruise is the classic experience: a day or an overnight on a converted rice barge. The town itself has a beach, a lighthouse and a handful of canal-side cafes. The Nehru Trophy Boat Race, a snake boat race held on Punnamada Lake in the monsoon (typically in August), is a spectacular festival.
Kumarakom
Kumarakom is quieter and more upmarket, with lakeside resorts, a bird sanctuary and a slower atmosphere. It suits couples, families and those who prefer resort-based comfort to a houseboat. Many resorts offer Ayurveda, canoe rides, cooking classes and village walks.
Houseboat or resort?
| Houseboat | Lakeside resort | |
|---|---|---|
| Experience | Floating through canals, meals on board | Comfortable rooms, pool, spa |
| Best for | A novel night, couples, groups | Families, longer stays, seniors |
| Trade-off | Cabin space, limited privacy, rules about timings | Less sense of movement, higher cost for premium resorts |
Many guests combine both: a night on a houseboat and a night at a resort.
What to do
- Take a houseboat cruise with meals on board.
- Try canoe rides through narrow village canals.
- Visit Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary for migratory and local birds.
- Watch toddy tapping or coir making to understand village life.
- Visit Marari Beach or Alappuzha Beach for a sunset.
- Attend a snake boat race if your dates match.
How many days
One night is enough for a houseboat, and two nights allow a resort stay as well. Many itineraries use Alleppey or Kumarakom as the last stop before the coast or the flight home.
When to go
September to March is the best period, with calm water and good weather. Monsoon months bring heavy rain and can limit cruising. April and May are hot and humid.
Practical notes
Houseboats usually check in around midday and moor before dark. Air-conditioning may be limited to certain hours. Alcohol policies vary. Choose a registered, classified boat, and check waste handling. Carry mosquito repellent, sunscreen, a hat and a light jacket. Keep phones and wallets safe on board.
A suggested stay
Arrive around midday, check in to a houseboat or resort and spend the afternoon on the water. Watch the sunset from the deck, have dinner on board and sleep to the sound of water. In the morning, enjoy a quiet breakfast, then take a canoe along a narrow canal before checking out. If you have a second night, switch to a lakeside resort in Kumarakom for a pool, a spa session and a bird walk.
Local life on the water
Visit a coir-making unit, a toddy-tapping demonstration or a village market to see how people live and work here. These experiences are best arranged through your resort or boat operator, and should be paid for fairly. Avoid intrusive photography of people at home.
Getting there
Alleppey is about 55 km from Kochi (one and a half hours) and has a railway station on the coastal line. Kumarakom is about 65 km from Kochi (two hours). Kottayam is the nearest major railway station for Kumarakom.
Plan with us
The backwaters are central to our Kerala honeymoon and the Classic Kerala tour. Read our houseboat and transport guide, or tell us your dates.
