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Fontainhas is the oldest surviving residential quarter in Panaji, a small cluster of lanes at the foot of Altinho hill where the Portuguese-era architecture has been preserved better than anywhere else in the city. The houses are painted in strong ochre, blue, green and yellow, with tiled roofs, balconies and carved doors. It is a quiet, atmospheric area for a slow walk, and a welcome change after a beach week.
What to see
- The lanes themselves. There is no single attraction; the pleasure is in wandering. Look for decorated door frames, wrought-iron balconies, azulejo-style tiles and small shrines.
- The Chapel of St Sebastian. A small white chapel at the heart of the quarter, with a history that includes a famous crucifix once kept in the Palace of the Inquisition.
- Small galleries and shops. A few cafes, boutique stores and galleries have opened, selling art, textiles and books.
- Views from Altinho. A short walk uphill gives you a view of the town and the river.
How to visit
Fontainhas is a residential area, so it is best explored on foot and with a quiet manner. Start in the morning when the light is soft and the lanes are empty. A loop usually takes 45 minutes to an hour, longer if you stop in cafes or shops. Wear comfortable shoes, since the lanes are narrow and uneven.
Etiquette
People live and work here. Do not photograph into windows, do not block doorways and keep voices low. Avoid flash photography in the chapel. Support the local cafes and shops rather than treating the area as a backdrop.
Eating nearby
Panaji has a good range of Goan restaurants within walking distance, including places serving fish curry rice, sausage pulao and vegetarian options. Bakeries sell fresh bread and traditional sweets such as bebinca.
When to go
Fontainhas is pleasant from October to March. The monsoon is wet, but rain brings a particular charm to the coloured walls, so long as you have an umbrella. Festival periods, such as the Feast of St Sebastian and the Fontainhas Festival of Arts, bring extra activity.
Combine it with
Pair Fontainhas with Old Goa in the morning and a lunch in Panaji. In the evening, take a river cruise on the Mandovi or a walk along the promenade.
Plan with us
Fontainhas fits a half-day heritage plan. See the Panaji and Old Goa guide or ask us to build it into your trip.
