On this page 10 sections
Kerala's southern coast has the state's best-known beaches. Kovalam, a few kilometres south of Thiruvananthapuram, has long been a beach resort with three crescent-shaped bays. Varkala, about 50 km north, is a cliff-top village with a sacred beach and a growing cafe scene. Together they give a relaxed finish to a Kerala trip.
Kovalam
Kovalam is organised around a series of bays divided by rocky headlands. Lighthouse Beach is the busiest, with a striped lighthouse above it, rows of shacks and restaurants, and a long stretch of sand. Hawa Beach has a lively evening scene. Samudra Beach is quieter. The water is relatively calm in season, with lifeguards on the main stretches. Kovalam has resorts at all price levels, Ayurveda centres and a range of seafood restaurants.
Varkala
Varkala is quite different. Red laterite cliffs rise above a long beach, and a path along the cliff edge is lined with cafes, yoga studios and shops. The beach below includes the sacred Papanasam Beach, where Hindus perform rituals, and the main beach, which has strong currents. The mood is relaxed and international, with a younger crowd and plenty of long-stay visitors. The nearby Janardhana Swamy Temple is an old shrine.
Thiruvananthapuram
Kerala's capital is a short drive from Kovalam. Worth seeing are the Padmanabhaswamy Temple, a major Vishnu temple with a strict dress code, the Napier Museum and the Kuthiramalika Palace Museum. The city is lively but secondary to the beaches for most travellers. Check temple rules: entry may be limited to specific visitors, and dress codes apply.
Beach safety
Kerala's beaches can have strong rip currents and sudden drop-offs. Swim only where lifeguards are present and between the flags. Avoid swimming after drinking or at night. In the monsoon, the sea is rough and swimming is not safe. Varkala's main beach has dangerous currents, and tourists have drowned there. Respect the warnings.
Ayurveda and wellness
The south has many Ayurveda resorts, from simple centres to luxurious retreats. Choose those with a qualified physician, clear programmes and transparent pricing. Treatments are prescribed after a consultation, and the best results come from a stay of a week or more. Short sessions are relaxing but not therapeutic.
When to go
November to March is the main season, with dry weather and calm seas. December to January is peak. April and May are hot and humid, and the monsoon from June to August brings heavy rain, though resorts offer Ayurveda programmes at lower prices.
Where to stay
Kovalam has resorts overlooking the sea, from budget guest houses to luxury properties. Varkala has cliff-top cottages, boutique hotels and hostels. Choose the area that matches your mood: Kovalam for comfort and facilities, Varkala for atmosphere and cafes. Book ahead in peak season.
A suggested day at the beach
Wake early for a walk and swim at a lifeguarded stretch, then breakfast and a rest in the shade. Take a late-morning Ayurveda massage, a long lunch of fresh fish and an afternoon nap. In the late afternoon, climb the lighthouse or walk the cliff, and finish with sunset and a quiet dinner by the sea. If you want a change, spend a morning in Thiruvananthapuram at the temple and museums.
Getting there
Thiruvananthapuram International Airport is about 15 km from Kovalam and 50 km from Varkala. Trains stop at Thiruvananthapuram Central and Varkala. From Alleppey, Kovalam is about 155 km (three and a half to four hours).
Plan with us
The south suits the end of a trip. See our Classic Kerala tour and the Kerala honeymoon for plans that include beaches. For wellness stays, see the Ayurveda retreat. Tell us your dates and we will suggest where to stay.
